Pearl Quality

Determining the quality of a pearl might seem difficult to the naked eye, but knowing the fundamental categories that determine a pearls’ value will behoove the consumer who wishes to purchase pearl jewelry. The quality and worth of pearls are generally judged in the following categories: thickness of the nacre, luster, size, shape, and color. You will notice that these factors interconnect in their relationship to determining a pearl’s value.

Nacre

The thickness of a pearl’s nacre is one of two elements that determine pearl size. The second factor is the size of the nucleus that was implanted within the mollusk. Nacre thickness also determines a pearl’s durability and resistant to discoloration. Cultured pearls with a thin-nacre despite its size will be more vulnerable to blemishes and cracking.

Luster

A pearls’ luster is enigmatic, and its iridescence can mesmerize the onlooker through its sheer sublime simplicity. Luster is determined by the thickness of the nacre as well. A pearl bearing a smooth and blemish free surface possesses a high degree of luster. You can judge the luster of a pearl by attempting to see your reflection on the surface of the pearl. If the pearl projects a blurry reflection, the pearl is deemed as having a low quality. If you see a fairly clear reflection of yourself, you possess within your hand a high quality pearl with a thick-nacre.

Size

Size is another important factor in determining the quality of pearls. Large pearls are usually produced by older or more mature oysters. The larger the pearl is, the older the mollusk or oyster. Isn’t it wonderful that in a world where youth is celebrated, pearls can remind us that age and maturity equals a higher worth. Pearls are measured in millimeters. The following is a size breakdown of pearl sizes: Small 3 to 4.5 mm; Medium 5-6 mm; Large 7-8 mm; and Very Large 8 mm and beyond. A fun fact to note is that one of the largest pearls on record is the Hope Pearl (displayed at the British Museum of Natural History) which measures approximately 2” long with a circumference of approximately between 3 ¼” to 4 ½.” However, its size cannot compare to the size of the largest pearl recorded on the Guinness Book of Records, the Pearl of Allah. This enormous pearl, boasting a length of 9.4 inches and weighs approximately 14 pounds, was retrieved in 1934 near the coast of Palawan Island, Philippines. The name was given by the Muslim diver who found the pearl.

Shape

Most pearls are round in shape, but very few pearls are perfectly spherical. Perfectly round pearls are the most valuable. You can usually test the spherical perfection of a pearl by rolling it on a flat surface. The smoother it rolls, the rounder it is. Pearls come in numerous shapes: round, tear drop, ringed, off-round and baroque. Round pearls are the most valuable and the least valuable being baroque pearls which are usually irregular in shape. The intensity of the irregularity varies in degrees, and in some instances, baroque can seem perfectly round to the naked eye.

Color

Pearls are usually classified in the following colors: white, cream, pink, silver, black, and gold. Quality pearls will have an even color with no blemishes. The overtone of a pearl is determined by the combination of colors projected when a pearl is rotated and they usually have a rose, green, or blue hue. What makes pearls so mesmerizing is their color projection. A good quality pearl will emanate its color from within. The depth of a pearl’s color projection adds greatly to its value.

The value of pearl jewelry is also judged by the harmonious similarity of the pearls’ size, color, and luster especially when they are strung as necklaces. There is the overall value of the pearls as a single gem, and the overall value of a piece of pearl jewelry. Pearls that are set or strung poorly can lose its market value because an incompetent jeweler has decided to execute the jewelry’s composition poorly. Nevertheless, having a fundamental knowledge of pearls will make you a more informed buyer, and it just might increase your passion for pearls and pearl jewelry.

Quality of Cultured Pearls


  • Cultured pearls are graded in the following categories: AAA (Extra Fine), AA (Fine), A (Good), and BB (Commercial).
  • AAA grade pearls are spherical in shape, even in color and luster, flawless, and they have a highlevel of luster and iridescence.
  • AA+ grade pearls have a high luster and iridescence and is 95% flawless. Most
  • AA+ pearls are frequently used in necklaces and bracelets.
  • AA grade pearls generally have a lesser degree of luster and iridescence; they also lack color uniformity with slight blemishes. Most AA grade pearls are drilled on the blemish to hide the flaw.
  • A grade pearls have less luster and iridescence than AA pearls. The naked eye might be able to detect flaws and the shape will be slightly irregular.
  • BB grade pearls will tend to look chalky white and they will have less luster and, iridescence. They will also tend to have blemishes.
  • AAA and AA+ ,AA pearls are usually used in pearl necklaces because jewelers are able to match size, color, and luster of the pearls fairly easily.